This is one of the saddest pieces of Seattle restaurant news I’ve heard since the Beeliner Diner and the Dog House closed: Jonathan Kauffman, restaurant critic for Seattle Weekly, is heading back to his old Bay Area eating grounds. Starting Jan. 1, he’ll take the critic’s job at SF Weekly.

Kauffman’s background as a cook, his knowledge, and his voracious curiosity for exploring all kinds of cuisine made him a must-read when he came to Seattle three years ago. He’s not just a must-read, he is a joy to read — perceptive, honest, and marvelously skilled.  (On top of all that, not only has he kept his relevance in this Internet age, he’s even retained his anonymity.) When I saw in 2007 that a food critic had won the Pulitzer Prize, and that his name was Jonathan, I more than half expected to hear Kauffman’s name follow. If you haven’t had the pleasure of reading his work, check out his takes on teriyaki, on what he saw at the pig slaughter, and Number One New York Pizza

Treat him well, SF, and feed him well.

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