I could have made a good case for any of the Seattle chefs nominated for a James Beard Award this year, but there’s something especially sweet about Maria Hines of Tilth taking home the 2009 medallion for Best Chef: Northwest. No chef exemplifies the Northwest more than Hines; she simultaneously illustrates our cuisine and helps define it.

Hines converts diners to organic ingredients and small local farms because she also creates wonderful food, arguing her philosophy through the taste buds rather than political theories. Behind those meals, though, are endless long days of unsung work, both in the kitchen and in the larger world of food. I see her as a grass-roots leader in where our country is headed; it’s heartening to see a national nod, in turn, for her.

Hines (along with last year’s Best Chef winner, Holly Smith of Cafe Juanita) was cooking at the post-awards gala, and sent out a statement thanking her crew at Tilth and “a very special thanks to my wife for letting me put a lien on the house for Tilth.” 

Hopefully, tonight was a down payment on knowing we all appreciated it.

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